This is one of those big ugly ungodly flies that seems to catch multiple species of fish. This pattern is great for bass, pike, trout, steelhead heck pretty much anything. I will warn you now that when tying this you will stop half way and think you screwed something up, just remember this ain't your granddads midge pattern, this fly will get real ugly before it gets better
Hook: Mustad Stainless Size 2
Tail: Olive Marabou
Body: Olive Crystal SLF Fibers dubbing
Hackle: Natural Hen soft hackle
Wing: Olive Rabbit Strip
Head: Sculpin Wool
Thread: 6/0 uni
When tying any articulated fly always start with the back section first. The back section of this fly is basically a hopped up wooly bugger.
First start your thread and wrap back to just beyond the hook point.
Tie in one Large plume of olive marabou trim excess and wrap tight.
Choose a large natural hen soft hackle you can also use schlapen feathers. I prefer to use feathers with a slight bronzing to them as it gives just a bit more flash to the fly.
Prepare feather by stroking back feather fibers then tie in the feather by the tip where the marabou tail starts.
Dub a large amount of the olive crystal SLF on to your tying thread.
Wrap the dubbing forward. It is important to create a large thick body because as you palmer the hackling forwards it will sink into the dubbing body and protect it and keep it secure.
Palmer the hackling forward tie off and trim, then take a few wraps back to push the hackling backwards.
Whip Finish and seal the fly. You have now completed the rear section to the articulated fly.
Now that the back section is finished it is now time to start the front section and connect the front and back together. I am tying this with dual hooks, but it can be tied with a single rear hook using articulated shanks or by simply clipping a hook off at the bend. As well I am using a high pound test mono-filament line to tie in my two sections, there are specialty wire products that you can use but they tend to add up in price quickly compared to a 100yard spool of mono.
Start your thread, and tie in a pair of dumbbell eyes 1-2 eye spaces back. You can tie the eyes on the top or bottom, it they are on top the fly will swim hook point up which means less chance of snagging on the bottom.
Cut a long piece of mono-filament, thread it through the eye of the rear section you have completed and then thread both ends through some sort of bead, in this case I am using a simple trout bead. Then tie in the two pieces of mono to the front hook near the bend. Before completely tying in the mono I adjust the distance between the two hooks, you want a decent distance so the hooks don't touch and give you good movement but you do not want it too long to where it will get tangled on its self.
After adjusting tie in the mono to the dumbbell eyes then fold the mono back and tie over it again back to the hook bend to completely secure it to the front shank.
Tie in one large plume of olive marabou so that it covers both sides and is long enough to cover the space between the hooks.
Prepare and tie in a hen soft hackle by the tip where the marabou tail starts
Take a loose clump of the olive SLF loosely wrap around it twice before securing to twist around hook shank then pull back extra and tie back to secure the fibers. Repeat this step 2 more times to create loose ball of SLF
Wrap hackles forward in tight wraps tie off trim and wrap back to push hackles back towards the hook bend.
Tie in two sets of barred silly legs on both sides of the hook.
Tie in a piece of olive rabbit strip that reaches back to the tail of the back hook and has an excess 3 inches in front of tie in point. Make sure to not trap any fibers when tying in by wetting fur and standing it straight up.
Again loosely tie in a few clumps of SLF fiber.
Bring the excess rabbit strip to side and wrap thread forward before palmering the excess rabbit strip forward twice. Tie off and trim excess then wrap back over the wrapped rabbit strips to push it back.
Cut inch long sections of sculpin wool that are 1-2 pencil diameters in thickness. Tie them in on top bottom and both sides
Pull back the sculpin wool bring thread forward and tie in more wool on top bottom and sides.
Advance thread forward in front of dumbbell eyes and again tie in wool on top bottom and sides. This is the point when you say to yourself "shit I have really made a mess and wasted my time" but hold in there I swear it will be fishable in just a moment!
Pull the wool back and whip finish.
Using a sharp pair of scissors trim the wool at an angle on top and bottom and flat on sides.
After preliminary trim continue with smaller scissors to finish trim the head.
And.... the final product should look something like this. When fishing this use short fast strip to maximize the movement of the articulated fly.
Chuck this bad boy near weed beds or shore lines to entice bass and pike, or fish it through deep pools on the swing for steelhead. Even cast down stream and let it wiggle in the current for a hungry brown. This fly is big ugly and versatile.